To be honest, there is really no absolute right or wrong in makeup.
As much as makeup aims to eccentuate your natural look, it is also an extension of your personality, and we got to admit there are people out there who express more with makeup, even going avant garde with their makeup... whether wearing foundation too dark, too orange, too white or too thick... I say if you're happy and comfortable... crack on... That being said, I was inspired to make this post after experiencing how difficult it is to find 'the' foundation.
As much as makeup aims to eccentuate your natural look, it is also an extension of your personality, and we got to admit there are people out there who express more with makeup, even going avant garde with their makeup... whether wearing foundation too dark, too orange, too white or too thick... I say if you're happy and comfortable... crack on... That being said, I was inspired to make this post after experiencing how difficult it is to find 'the' foundation.
There are a few factors you have to consider to get the right foundation... it is more about your taste and what you want to achieve than just skin type. Skin type does play a role but again it still depend on how you want to look. I am oily and was always told to stick to matte foundation...but I really like more satin finish with shimmery highlighter. And I believe there are dry skin out there who loves a matte finish. There is always trick for you to get away with foundations that supposedly not for you. Just keep on reading.
The 'Right' shade
This is the most crucial part, hence the longer paragraph *rants*.
While foundation shades range from light to dark, there are also variety undertones. When I started wearing makeup, wrong undertone was the biggest problem by making my face look gray.
Undertone in foundation generally divide into:-
Undertone in foundation generally divide into:-
Cool tone
Contain Pink, Peach or Red. Give that rosy tone.
Contain Pink, Peach or Red. Give that rosy tone.
Warm tone
Contain Yellow or Orange. Give that golden tone.
Contain Yellow or Orange. Give that golden tone.
Neutral
Mix of both cool and warm.
Mix of both cool and warm.
If you're not sure what you are, try and look it up, there are tons of articles available about finding your undertone. I like this one.
I myself am warm but I do have that slight olive undertone which means the orange in warm tone foundation can look 'off' on me. Olive undertone has a slight green mix into yellow undertone...which can be a bit tricky. This undertone is common among South - South East Asian, Latinas and sometime mixed people. While reading up on internet I kept seeing different articles that sort of have different ideas on olive undertone. I myself believe olive undertone needs a slight green in foundation. Usually olive are categorized as warm, but as you go darker you find darker warm tone foundation tend to look orange which can look a bit 'off' on olive tone. Yellow green undertone foundation actually look very 'dead' on the bottle but it blends naturally in olive tone skin.
Does season matters?
It is also helpful to consider how tan you are throughout the years. This is more common with those living in 4 seasons country where they would use lighter shade in winter and darker shade during summer. I personally don't do that even after studying in Belfast for years. Instead of buying darker foundation for summer, I would just adjust with bronzers. Though I admit I do have a few 'accidents' of buying foundation tad too dark.
Generally you want to be matched exactly to your skin, that is a no-brainer. That being said, you would want to take into account on your perspective and preference on how you want your complexion to look. For example, usually people from 'West' have more appreciation for that tan healthy look, so they may still be happy even if the foundation is very the slightly darker than their skin.
Whereas I'm being typical Malay would like to look the brightest I possibly can would go for slightly lighter foundation, and I don't think anything wrong with that. This is similar to other Southeast and Eastern Asians like the Thais or Koreans. I don't tolerate foundation that give the slightest 'tan tint' to my skin, even if they blend in. It might still look 'good' but it's just not my style. Another reason is also because my hands looks lighter than my face.
Whereas I'm being typical Malay would like to look the brightest I possibly can would go for slightly lighter foundation, and I don't think anything wrong with that. This is similar to other Southeast and Eastern Asians like the Thais or Koreans. I don't tolerate foundation that give the slightest 'tan tint' to my skin, even if they blend in. It might still look 'good' but it's just not my style. Another reason is also because my hands looks lighter than my face.
Now if you look the Lancome's cushion in 04 it looks clearly too gray on my skin, there was not enough yellow it in addition that it is tad too light. While 05 is just too dark, surprisingly not as orange but still. So you see skin like me have this problem everyday...no in between shades. But thanks to brands like MAC, NARS, Makeup Forever even Kevyn Aucoin and more I still manage to find my shade.
NARS Barcelona has a good mix of yellow in it and look how nice blends into my skin.
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| Swatches in flashlight, look how grey the foundation could be without enough yellow. |
If you skip finding out what you prefer you'll find yourself dissapointed with foundation you get matched to.
From past experiences, I try to avoid getting matched from the get-go because I felt it can be misleading, being someone with yellow green undertone and preferring a slightly brighter shade, it can be difficult to explain well to the sales assistant.
From past experiences, I try to avoid getting matched from the get-go because I felt it can be misleading, being someone with yellow green undertone and preferring a slightly brighter shade, it can be difficult to explain well to the sales assistant.
TIP:
I find it is helpful if you sort of have an idea what shade you might be and suggest that at the counter. I try to find mine by watching youtubers/bloggers of similar skintone and use foundation matrix at Temptalia.
I find it is helpful if you sort of have an idea what shade you might be and suggest that at the counter. I try to find mine by watching youtubers/bloggers of similar skintone and use foundation matrix at Temptalia.
There are still wonderful sale assistants that just listen to customers well and match foundation to perfection. *Thank you Chanel and Illamasqua counters at Belfast Debenhams!*
Be patient while explaining and take your time while trying out at the counter. Never rush to buy a foundation unless it's 2nd bottle/tube.
Last resort is to get samples, try at home for a few days, compare to other foundation you have at home. Although this may only be availabe for higher end brand.
The Right Coverage
Coverage refers to how pigmented the foundation is, range from light to full.
While this may have to do with how clear your skin is, it is again up to you. Some who have crystal clear skin may still prefer full coverage. Even for me, despite having acnes, I find myself satisfied with medium to almost full coverage.
Now having said that each type of coverage can have pro and cons. Since now we have wider range of coverage, I just be simple in explaining.
Coverage refers to how pigmented the foundation is, range from light to full.
While this may have to do with how clear your skin is, it is again up to you. Some who have crystal clear skin may still prefer full coverage. Even for me, despite having acnes, I find myself satisfied with medium to almost full coverage.
Now having said that each type of coverage can have pro and cons. Since now we have wider range of coverage, I just be simple in explaining.
The Lighter coverage
This means more of your skin comes trough, makes it more natural like your own skin, but also mean less flawless, and blemish is reduced only by little.
The BAD: this also can mean skintone is not fully even, might even look blotchy.
This means more of your skin comes trough, makes it more natural like your own skin, but also mean less flawless, and blemish is reduced only by little.
The BAD: this also can mean skintone is not fully even, might even look blotchy.
The Fuller coverage
So this mean less of your skin comes through, makes it less natural but more flawless and even tone. Your blemish can literally vanished
The BAD: If not applied well can give mask-like effect.
So this mean less of your skin comes through, makes it less natural but more flawless and even tone. Your blemish can literally vanished
The BAD: If not applied well can give mask-like effect.
Don't forget, foundation coverage can dictate how much concealer you need. The fuller the coverage the less concealer you need.
The Right Finish
Welcome to 2016 where foundation finish is as advanced as your smartphone. When I started wearing makeup it is just as simple as dewy finish, satin natural finish and matte finish.
Now we have the modern formula such as demi-matte, glow from within look and more. Confused? I'll tell you there is no simple way of explaining the finish of new foundations nowadays.
Now we have the modern formula such as demi-matte, glow from within look and more. Confused? I'll tell you there is no simple way of explaining the finish of new foundations nowadays.
So for those who new to makeup, I will explain the classic finish of a foundation.
Dewy finish
Give the glow even a sheen to skin making it look lively, and even have fresh wet effect. Think Korean beauty ads. Usually associated with spring summer with lighter coverage, aim for those with near perfect skin.
The Bad: Those that contain shimmer which can make you look greasy and highlight pores.
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| https://66.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lue490onx31qd9chs.jpg |
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| https://scbeautyhigh.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/dewy-skin-how-to.jpg?w=1159&h=1739 |
This finish get rid of shine on your complexion and give a powdery finish. Usually associated with autumn winter and fuller coverage, aimed for those with oily and acne-prone.
The Bad: It can give a flat, dry, cake-like effect, can catch on dry patches.
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| http://ris.fashion.telegraph.co.uk/RichImageService.svc/imagecontent/1/TMG9734471/m/16-Dec-intro-pic_2423260a.jpg |
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| http://ris.fashion.telegraph.co.uk/RichImageService.svc/imagecontent/1/TMG10298369/m/MAIN-VICTORIA-BECK_2666592a.jpg |
There is also the satin or natural finish which what most latest formula try to emulate. It is basically mix of both dewy and matte . Although it is always hard to find the right balance between dewy and matte. This really depends on each individual foundation.
Like I mention above, I would ignore the specified demographic for each finish, even if you dry, you can go matte and even if you oily you can go dewy. Nowadays with these modern formula it is easier and there are things you could do to avoid the BAD from each finish. For example moisturizing well before a matte foundation to avoid dry flatness and powdering a dewy foundation to reduce the shine and oiliness.
The Right Type
Nowadays you could get foundations in many forms; in liquids of all consistency, from thick creams, gel-cream, to watery liquid. Then you have the powder; pressed or loose. Then you got the cushion compact which is technically a liquid although I admired the convenience. Too bad I haven't found one of my perfect shade... Lancome UK recently come up with "Teint Idole Ultra Cushion" which is the second cushion foundation launch. It probably the first of UK brands to come up with cushion closer to most Korean cushion, which is matte and full coverage... alas... they make a big jump between a medium shade to dark, which left no room for someone with medium dark skin like me. I'll just stick to liquid. (see the swatches above)
We can't really says which form or type is better, it really depends on the brand and the formulations. Some of us might be prioritizing the convenience, so they like powder foundation but some might hate dryness from powder. However, now we are in 2016, there are powder foundation compact with better formula which is not too drying and not too forget the vast cream compact and cushion compact alternatives. Just find one or a few if you like that fit your cup of tea.
We can't really says which form or type is better, it really depends on the brand and the formulations. Some of us might be prioritizing the convenience, so they like powder foundation but some might hate dryness from powder. However, now we are in 2016, there are powder foundation compact with better formula which is not too drying and not too forget the vast cream compact and cushion compact alternatives. Just find one or a few if you like that fit your cup of tea.
The last thing i like to share with you all is never get sucked in by the hype etc... now that we live in the age where Instagrammers and bloggers are trusted more than advert, you have to remember that a lot of these internet personalities got affiliate links and got paid for hyping something. It's good to get to know the latest trend and product but chances are you might still prefer your old favourites.I do admit it is quite difficult if you're just getting into makeup but I believe everyone went through that trial error process and eventually figure how they like their foundation to be .
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| MAC Studio Sculpt, Nars All Day Luminous Weightless Foundation, Chanel Perfection Lumiere, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer |
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| Studio Sculpt NC42 swatch |
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| Nars All Day Luminous Weightless in Barcelona |
Chanel Perfection Lumiere in 50 - slightly cooler, but still match fine, I tried 60 and 54 but it's darker and too orange for my liking.
I just starting to use the Kevyn Aucoin Skin Enhancer and I believe it is included in my top favourites and probably on par with MAC Studio Sculpt with how the shade SX11 match me.The only gripe with it is getting used to cream formulation.
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| Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer SX11 |
I will do reviews on all these foundations, especially the MAC Studio Sculpt as I have been using it for years!
I hope this post helps and give some ideas especially for those just starting to get into makeup.
