Complexion: Contour and highlight (PART 1) plus the un-prettiest sketches lol!

Not trying to be too artistic or what... lol. I'm just bad at drawing... period.

I  recently change something in my contour highlight routine and I thought I want to share it on the blog. But since I don't do videos and I don't have a proper camera, plus not having the best canvas and products to demonstrate this 'technique'... next thing I knew I was sketching on my phone (Samsung Galaxy Note) and I thought, well this is not too bad actually... hahaa!

In the 'old' days, contouring seems to associate to 'shaving off' a few pounds' and it does make sense,  since it give that chiseled effect, but it is more than that. You might think of this technique as a 'face changer' or making a 'dramatic statement' but I see it as a technique to bring your 'natural face' back. 

It's all about having dimension.

When we started wearing powder, then upgraded to higher coverage base like foundation and concealer, notice that that 'bland, flat' effect? If you're a malay, you probably familiar with the term 'muka tepung gomak'. 

Imagine putting your face with the same colour all over, however thin it may be, without any dimension, it will look flat and obviously made up despite going 'natural' sans blush, lipcolour and eye makeup. This problem maybe more common among guys as they don't really put colours in the face and those with darker skintone as the natural shadow would be less  obvious compare to those with fairer skintone...this also work the reverse way as well as natural highlight would look less obvious on fairer skintone.

While in the past this technique usually reserved for the professional, now after becoming a trend a couple years back, there are more information and more products available. Look at all the brands racing to bring out the ultimate "CONTOUR KIT".

For those who is not familiar, basically CONTOUR is putting 'shadow' (darker colour) on the 'trough' or 'depression' of the face, bringing those part 'down and in'. 

HIGHLIGHT is putting 'light' (brighter colour) on the 'peak' or the 'high-planes' of the face, bringing those part 'up and out'

If you study your face, you can actually determine these parts yourself. But if not, you could use the guide I provide below.

with only foundation on and some lipcolour. Look at the'natural' shadow where I outline

This is how I typically contour and highlight. It does not take too long after you get used to them.
The sketch below sums it up a bit more.

LOL... this sketch is too much... 

I have a darker skintone, so my natural shadow may not be too obvious. In addition to that, I have wide cheeks with baby fat, so base makeup like foundation can easily knock-out the natural shadow on my face making it look more 'made up'/unnatural. So contour bring back the natural shadow and highlighting is accentuating the 'structure' and again, dimension of the my face.

General tips on products:

CONTOUR

• Strictly MATTE product so it does not catch the light hence give the opposite effect
• Generally use a product few shade darker than skin tone
• While bronzer even some blusher is generally 'acceptable' as contour product but the most ideal contour product would be a more cool BROWN with a 'GREY' undertone (how dark depends on your skintone)

HIGHLIGHT

• Use both MATTE and SHIMMER with the shimmery product only on a few points. Shimmer/sheen/glow... all these catches the light, and bring up those structures. 
• Glitter is fine generally but may be too unnatural and over the top. Avoid the chunky ones.
• Generally use a product a few shade lighter than skin tone.

My usual routine...

CONTOUR:-

• Hollow of the cheeks
• Under jawline
• Side of the nose
• Outer corner of the eyes
• Under the lips 

 HIGHLIGHT:-

• Under the eyes
• Bridge to tip of the nose
• Forehead
• Chin 
• In addition to that, I add shimmery highlight but only on cheek bone and bridge of the nose, sparing the tip.

There are still more areas that you could contour and highlight, it really depend on how much effect you are looking for and you face shape as well ie. long face verse round face etc...

Hope that the sketches below explains more.

There is two type of highlighting product to use, matte and shimmery. Use either or use both. It is really up to you.

Matte highlight is less risky than shimmery highlight, as shimmer product could make you look a bit shiny, oily and like a disco ball. If you hate that don't do it. If you like that, and skin is dry, go nuts... but I personally keep the shimmery at key points. 

Now highlighting nose, it use to be just on the bridge of the nose, but I can't deny there is a trend which include highlighting with shimmer on the tip of nose... I guess if it works... continue on. 

I did watched Wayne Goss on youtube commenting on this, kinda funny...

The classic technique of highlighting with shimmery product is to apply in "C" shape from the brow bone to the cheekbone. Even if you don't do the whole shabang, just use this technique and it still make a different. This is the first technique I actually introduce in my routine.

The classic technique for contour is to apply in '3' shape which start from temple to hollow of cheeks and to under the jawline... or you could make it a three C shape by extending from outer forhead. 

Like I mention stick to matte product... shimmer catches light therefore it highlights (the opposite effect of contour). Only those with very prominent hollows in their face could get a way with shimmery contour, because with deeper hollows it is more difficult to catch light. 

Now the risk of over-contouring. Imagine just having a bland foundation then contour with grey tone brown... it potentially make you look 'sick' or harsh... 

So a great tip is to blend contour with bronzer or even you blush. This is great as it soften the grayness from the contour and give healthy look to your complexion. 

Now if you notice in the sketches, HIGHLIGHT is mostly done in CENTRE of the face as that is where it 'bulges' out and CONTOUR is mostly done at the OUTLINE of the face. 

If you are familiar with with 'Korean style' makeup, they basically follow this rule. Instead of the typical shadowing in the hollow of the cheeks, they prefer to 'shave' off the jawline and put shadow on the outline the face. These steps basically to fulfill their beauty 'standard of having a 'small face' and a 'V' line jaw. 

So like I mention earlier it really depends on what you are trying to achieve. Like myself I'm just trying to get back that dimension and give structured look to my face. It's not just about looking 'thinner'. 

Not all of us have the same face shape, and depends on how much and type of products used, contour and highlight can have a subtle or major effect on how your face shape appears ie. natural vs 'Maleficient' like sharp cheeks.

I just also have to share this article by Beauty Editor on Nick Barose. We got to admit contour and highlight has gone a bit too far and it sort blurred the line between reality and filters, practicality and long winded routine... my thoughts really resonate with what Nick Barose was saying on beauty greed. 

This sound cliche but it needs to get out there. 

In PART 2, I will explain about products to use including the product I used in my routine.